Shahtoosh and International Biodiversity Law: The Bigger Legal Context

Shahtoosh and International Biodiversity Law: The Bigger Legal Context

Pashwrap Homeβ€Ί Journalβ€Ί Shahtoosh and International Biodiversity Law
International Law & Policy Β· M3Β·28

The chiru's legal protection does not begin and end with CITES. It sits within a layered architecture of international biodiversity agreements β€” from the 1963 foundations of CITES itself through the Convention on Biological Diversity, the Aichi Targets, and the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework β€” each layer adding obligation, monitoring, and accountability. Understanding this architecture explains both why the Shahtoosh trade persisted for so long and why its eventual suppression matters beyond the individual species.

Pashwrap Β· Three-Generation Kashmir House June 2026 3,000 words Β· 13 min read
βš–οΈ Written by the Pashwrap team. Three generations in the Kashmir Pashmina trade. The legal frameworks described in this article form the regulatory environment within which the Kashmir textile industry operates. We have a direct commercial interest in understanding and supporting the international biodiversity law architecture that distinguishes legal from illegal luxury fiber β€” because our livelihood depends on a world in which that distinction is maintained and enforced.

The standard account of Shahtoosh's legal status begins and ends with CITES: the chiru was listed on Appendix I in 1979, making commercial trade illegal across all signatory states. This account is accurate as far as it goes β€” but it understates both the richness of the legal framework that exists around the chiru's protection and the significance of the Shahtoosh case as a test of that framework's real-world effectiveness. The chiru's protection is embedded in one of the most comprehensive systems of international species and biodiversity protection ever assembled. That this system took nearly two decades to meaningfully suppress a commercial wildlife trade operating openly in the world's fashion capitals says something important about the gap between international law on paper and international law in practice.


The Architecture β€” Layers of International Biodiversity Law

Layer 1
CITES β€” Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (1963/1975)

The most directly applicable instrument β€” the specific treaty that governs commercial trade in endangered species. CITES operates through three appendices of increasing protection level. Appendix I lists species for which commercial trade is effectively prohibited; Appendix II allows regulated trade with permits; Appendix III allows countries to request monitoring assistance. With 183 signatory parties, it is one of the most widely ratified international environmental agreements.

Chiru / shahtoosh relevance: Chiru listed on Appendix I since 1979. Commercial trade in chiru products β€” including Shahtoosh shawls β€” prohibited across all signatory states from this date.

Layer 2
Convention on Biological Diversity β€” CBD (1992, Rio de Janeiro)

The broader framework addressing biodiversity as a whole rather than individual species. The CBD has three objectives: conservation of biological diversity; sustainable use of its components; and fair and equitable sharing of benefits arising from genetic resources. It is a framework convention β€” setting goals and principles rather than specific species-level obligations β€” but it provides the political and institutional context within which CITES and domestic legislation operate. 196 parties have ratified.

Chiru / shahtoosh relevance: The CBD's obligation to protect species and ecosystems creates the broader duty of which CITES Appendix I protection is the specific trade instrument. CBD COP decisions have addressed wildlife trade as a biodiversity threat, providing political context for CITES enforcement.

Layer 3
Aichi Biodiversity Targets β€” Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 2011–2020

The CBD's 2010 strategic framework, adopted at COP10 in Nagoya, Japan. The Aichi Targets set 20 specific goals for biodiversity conservation by 2020, including Target 12 (preventing extinction of threatened species) and Target 13 (maintaining genetic diversity). The Aichi framework was the first comprehensive global biodiversity target system β€” and its 2020 assessment found that none of the 20 targets had been fully achieved, and most had only been partially met.

Chiru / shahtoosh relevance: The chiru's partial population recovery is an Aichi Target 12 success story β€” one of relatively few cases where an Appendix I listed species has shown measurable recovery within the target period. Target 12's failure at the global level makes this partial success more notable.

Layer 4
Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework β€” GBF (2022)

The successor to the Aichi Targets, adopted at CBD COP15 in Montreal in December 2022 after being initiated in Kunming, China. The GBF sets a new post-2020 framework with 23 action targets and 4 outcome goals, including the headline "30Γ—30" target (protecting at least 30% of the world's land and ocean by 2030). The framework is more specific than the Aichi Targets and incorporates stronger monitoring and accountability mechanisms. 196 CBD parties have adopted it.

Chiru / shahtoosh relevance: The Chang Tang National Nature Reserve of Tibet β€” the primary chiru habitat β€” is a key protected area under the 30Γ—30 framework. The GBF's emphasis on illegal wildlife trade as a biodiversity threat makes the Shahtoosh case a reference point for current policy discussions.

Layer 5
Domestic Implementation β€” National Wildlife Protection Legislation

International conventions require domestic legislation to be enforceable. In the Shahtoosh context, the key domestic instruments are India's Wildlife (Protection) Act 1972 (chiru listed on Schedule I), the UK's Control of Trade in Endangered Species (COTES) regulations (1994/1997), the US Endangered Species Act (ESA, 1973) and Lacey Act, and equivalent legislation in the EU, Australia, and other major consumer markets. Domestic legislation is where international obligations become criminal offences with actual penalties.

Chiru / shahtoosh relevance: The enforcement actions that suppressed the commercial Shahtoosh trade in the late 1990s were prosecuted under domestic legislation β€” primarily UK COTES and US ESA/Lacey Act provisions β€” not under CITES directly. International law created the obligation; domestic law provided the instrument.


CITES in Depth β€” How Appendix I Protection Works

CITES was concluded in 1963, opened for signature in Washington DC in 1973, and entered into force in 1975. It was the first international treaty to address the commercial wildlife trade systematically β€” recognising that international trade was a primary driver of species decline and that no single nation could address it unilaterally, since the trade by definition crossed borders.

The Appendix I listing mechanism works through a Conference of the Parties (COP) process β€” member states propose listings, scientific committees evaluate the evidence against defined criteria, and the COP votes. An Appendix I listing requires a two-thirds majority vote. Once listed, commercial trade between CITES parties in Appendix I species requires both an export permit from the country of origin and an import permit from the destination country β€” and commercial trade for primarily commercial purposes is explicitly prohibited, regardless of permit availability. This is what makes the Shahtoosh case legally unambiguous: from 1979, no CITES party could legally issue permits for commercial Shahtoosh trade.

✦ The Permit Fiction

One of the more persistent elements of the Shahtoosh trade's legal mythology was the suggestion that pieces could be legitimately traded if the right documentation existed β€” a seller's certificate, an export document, a pre-ban claim. As documented in detail in our documentation article, this is not how CITES Appendix I works. No permit for commercial Shahtoosh trade could have been legally issued by any CITES signatory from 1979. A piece of paper claiming otherwise is not a permit under international law β€” it is either a fraudulent document or a pre-CITES artefact that does not authorise subsequent commercial transactions. The legal position is absolute: no valid documentation for commercial Shahtoosh trade exists because no such documentation could have been validly issued.

The chiru's specific CITES history is instructive for understanding how the international community assessed the trade's threat level. The 1979 listing β€” before the Western luxury market for Shahtoosh had fully developed β€” reflected the chiru's existing conservation concern status, not the specific commercial pressure that would build through the 1980s and 1990s. The listing was protective but prophylactic rather than responsive: the trade that would nearly eliminate the chiru was not yet at commercial scale when Appendix I protection was applied.


The Convention on Biological Diversity β€” The Wider Frame

The CBD, adopted at the Rio Earth Summit in 1992, represents a fundamentally different approach to biodiversity protection from CITES. Where CITES is a trade regulation instrument β€” focused on the specific pathway of commercial trade as a driver of species decline β€” the CBD is a comprehensive biodiversity framework addressing the full range of threats: habitat loss, invasive species, pollution, overexploitation, and climate change.

The CBD's relationship to the Shahtoosh case is indirect but meaningful. The CBD created the political and institutional environment within which CITES enforcement was expected to operate β€” establishing the global consensus that biodiversity loss was a crisis requiring systematic international response, not just individual species protection. The 1992 adoption of the CBD gave momentum to the conservation community's engagement with wildlife trade enforcement at exactly the period when the Shahtoosh trade was at its commercial peak.

More specifically, the CBD's work on illegal wildlife trade β€” through dedicated CBD COP decisions, through the CBD's relationship with CITES, and through the CBD's articulation of biodiversity loss as a systemic threat rather than a species-by-species problem β€” provided the policy framework within which TRAFFIC's documentation of the Shahtoosh trade was understood and acted upon. The chiru's near-collapse was not only a CITES compliance failure but a CBD Article 8 failure (in-situ conservation obligation) and a CBD Article 8(k) failure (regulation of wildlife trade to prevent or minimise risk to species).


The Aichi Targets β€” The Framework That Fell Short

The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 2011–2020 and its Aichi Biodiversity Targets represented the international community's first attempt to set specific, measurable global biodiversity goals within a defined timeframe. The 20 targets covered the full range of biodiversity threats β€” from addressing underlying causes of biodiversity loss (Targets 1–4) through reducing direct pressures (Targets 5–10) through safeguarding ecosystems (Targets 11–15) through enhancing benefits (Targets 16–19) through implementation (Target 20).

The chiru's situation under the Aichi framework is one of the genuine partial successes within an overall framework that failed its headline objectives. Target 12 β€” "by 2020, the extinction of known threatened species has been prevented and their conservation status, particularly of those most in decline, has been improved and sustained" β€” was not achieved globally. But the chiru specifically: population recovery from the mid-1990s nadir of approximately 65,000–75,000 animals to approximately 100,000 by the target period represents a documented conservation response to the legal framework that was supposed to produce exactly this outcome.

✦ The Chiru as an Aichi Success Case

In a global accounting of Aichi Target 12 performance that is dominated by failure β€” continued extinctions, continued population declines across most monitored species groups β€” the chiru's partial recovery stands out. It demonstrates that the combination of CITES Appendix I listing, domestic enforcement action, habitat protection (the Chang Tang National Nature Reserve covers approximately 334,000 kmΒ² of core chiru habitat), and reduced commercial hunting pressure can produce measurable population recovery within a human-relevant timeframe. The recovery is partial β€” the species remains at less than 10% of its historical baseline β€” but the direction of change is the direction the international framework was designed to produce.


Kunming-Montreal β€” The Current Global Framework

The Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework, adopted in December 2022, is the most ambitious biodiversity agreement since the CBD itself. Its headline "30Γ—30" target β€” protecting 30% of the world's land and 30% of the world's oceans by 2030 β€” has direct implications for the chiru's remaining range on the Tibetan plateau.

Target 5 of the GBF is specifically relevant to the Shahtoosh case: it commits parties to "ensure that the use, harvesting and trade of wild species is sustainable, safe and legal, preventing overexploitation and reducing unsustainable use." This language β€” with its explicit reference to legal use as a baseline requirement β€” directly addresses the governance failure that allowed the Shahtoosh trade to operate for two decades after the chiru's CITES Appendix I listing.

The GBF's approach to illegal wildlife trade is notably more explicit than the Aichi Targets'. Where the Aichi framework addressed overexploitation generally, the GBF specifically identifies illegal wildlife trade as a threat requiring targeted policy responses β€” and calls for monitoring and reporting on progress against illegal trade reduction. The Shahtoosh case, with its documented progression from uncontrolled commercial trade to enforcement-driven suppression to partial population recovery, is precisely the kind of case study that informs the GBF's design of monitoring frameworks.

✦ The 30Γ—30 Target and the Chang Tang

The Kunming-Montreal 30Γ—30 target has direct implications for the chiru's most important habitat β€” the Chang Tang plateau of Tibet. China's existing Chang Tang National Nature Reserve already covers a substantial portion of the core chiru range; expansion of protected area coverage under 30Γ—30 commitments would increase the proportion of chiru habitat under formal protection. China is a CITES signatory and a CBD party; its 30Γ—30 commitments are among the largest in absolute area terms. Whether these commitments translate to effective habitat protection for the chiru β€” including enforcement against the residual illegal hunting that continues at reduced scale β€” is the implementation question that the GBF framework is designed to generate accountability around.


Domestic Implementation β€” Where International Law Meets Practice

International biodiversity law has no direct enforcement mechanism β€” it creates obligations on states, not directly on individuals or corporations. The conversion of international obligations into enforceable domestic law is the critical implementation step, and it is where the Shahtoosh case illustrates both the system's ultimate effectiveness and the delays that the gap between international obligation and domestic enforcement can produce.

The key domestic instruments in the Shahtoosh context:

  • India β€” Wildlife (Protection) Act 1972, Schedule I: The chiru was listed on Schedule I β€” the highest protection category β€” giving domestic legal force to the CITES obligation within India's jurisdiction. This made hunting, trade, and possession of chiru products illegal under Indian law from the Act's commencement, seven years before the CITES listing. The 2002 amendment specifically addressed Shahtoosh by name, closing a gap in the original legislation.
  • United Kingdom β€” COTES (Control of Trade in Endangered Species) Regulations 1994 and 1997: The UK's domestic implementation of CITES, which made possession, offer for sale, and commercial trade in Appendix I species products criminal offences. It was under COTES that the Bond Street boutique raids of the late 1990s were prosecuted β€” the domestic instrument that gave enforceable teeth to obligations that had existed in international law since 1979.
  • United States β€” Endangered Species Act 1973 and Lacey Act: The ESA listed the chiru, making import, export, and interstate commerce in chiru products illegal under US law. The Lacey Act additionally criminalised trade in wildlife taken or sold in violation of any law β€” including foreign laws β€” making US jurisdiction available even for products that had not been traded within the US.
  • China β€” Wild Animal Protection Law and CITES implementation: China's domestic wildlife protection framework covers the chiru in its core Tibetan plateau range. The effectiveness of Chinese enforcement of these protections improved significantly through the 1990s and 2000s, with the establishment of anti-poaching patrols in the Chang Tang and prosecutions of poaching gangs. Chinese enforcement effort is one of the primary drivers of the chiru's partial population recovery.

The Full Legal Timeline β€” Every Instrument, Every Milestone

1963
International Β· Foundation

CITES concluded in Washington DC. The first international framework for regulating wildlife trade, based on the principle that international cooperation is necessary because the trade itself is international.

1972
India Β· Domestic

India's Wildlife (Protection) Act enacted. Chiru listed on Schedule I β€” the highest protection category. India's domestic prohibition predates the international CITES listing by seven years.

1975
International Β· CITES

CITES enters into force. The treaty framework becomes operational across signatory states, creating enforceable obligations to control wildlife trade.

1979
International Β· Critical Listing

Chiru (Pantholops hodgsonii) listed on CITES Appendix I. Commercial trade in chiru products prohibited across all signatory states from this date. The listing predates the Western luxury market for Shahtoosh by several years β€” protective rather than responsive at this stage.

1980s
Trade Β· The Non-Enforcement Decade

Western luxury Shahtoosh market develops. Fashion press celebrates the fiber without legal context. CITES Appendix I obligation unenforced in major consumer markets. TRAFFIC begins documentation work. Chiru population begins accelerating decline.

1992
International Β· CBD

Convention on Biological Diversity adopted at the Rio Earth Summit. 196 parties will ultimately ratify. The CBD creates the broader biodiversity framework within which CITES operates β€” establishing global obligations for in-situ conservation, sustainable use, and benefit-sharing.

1994–97
UK Β· Domestic Implementation

UK enacts COTES regulations. Enforcement action against Shahtoosh traders becomes legally possible under domestic law. The instrument that had existed in international law since 1979 now has domestic teeth in a key consumer market.

Late 1990s
Enforcement Β· The Turning Point

Coordinated enforcement raids on Bond Street (London) and Fifth Avenue (New York) boutiques. First prosecutions under COTES and US ESA/Lacey Act. Fashion press reversal. Chiru population at nadir β€” approximately 65,000–75,000 animals, down from a historical baseline approaching one million.

2002
India Β· Amendment

India's Wildlife (Protection) Act amended to specifically address Shahtoosh by name, closing gaps in the original 1972 legislation that had allowed some continued trade to be characterised as pre-existing stock. The amendment reflects the parliamentary response to ongoing trade documentation.

2010
International Β· Aichi Targets

CBD COP10 in Nagoya adopts the Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 2011–2020 and the 20 Aichi Biodiversity Targets. Target 12 (preventing species extinction and improving conservation status) sets the framework against which chiru population recovery will be measured.

2016
Species Recovery Β· IUCN Downlisting

IUCN reclassifies chiru from Endangered to Near Threatened β€” acknowledging the population recovery to approximately 100,000 animals as a result of reduced hunting pressure and habitat protection. The first formal international recognition that the legal framework had produced measurable conservation outcomes for the chiru.

2022
International Β· Kunming-Montreal GBF

CBD COP15 adopts the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework with the 30Γ—30 target and explicit illegal wildlife trade reduction commitments. The chiru's Chang Tang habitat falls within the 30Γ—30 framework's scope for China's protected area expansion commitments.


What the Architecture Has and Has Not Achieved for the Chiru

🌐
CITES Appendix I (1979 onward)
Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species
βœ“ Achieved
  • Created the legal basis for domestic enforcement across 183 signatory states β€” without which the late-1990s prosecutions would have had no statutory foundation
  • Established the permit requirement that made the absence of any valid permit for commercial Shahtoosh trade legally unambiguous
  • Provided the classification framework (Appendix I vs II vs III) that communicates conservation urgency to policymakers, enforcement agencies, and courts
βœ— Failed / Fell Short
  • Did not prevent two decades of commercial trade in named CITES Appendix I species products in major consumer-market capitals
  • Had no direct enforcement mechanism β€” relied entirely on domestic implementation that was absent or inactive in key markets for most of the trade's commercial peak
  • Did not create market education requirements β€” buyers in fashion capitals were under no obligation to know about CITES, and the fashion press had no obligation to mention it
🌿
Convention on Biological Diversity (1992 onward)
Rio Earth Summit β€” 196 parties
βœ“ Achieved
  • Created the political and institutional environment in which TRAFFIC's documentation of the Shahtoosh trade was understood as a systemic biodiversity problem, not merely a customs violation
  • Through the Aichi Target framework, created measurable accountability for species recovery β€” making the chiru's status trackable against defined targets
  • Established the conceptual framework (biodiversity as a global commons requiring collective action) that underpins all subsequent international biodiversity agreements
βœ— Failed / Fell Short
  • As a framework convention, created no specific obligations that were directly enforceable against the Shahtoosh trade or its participants
  • Aichi Targets (2010–2020) were not achieved at the global level β€” the biodiversity loss context within which the chiru's partial recovery occurred was one of continuing overall decline
  • Benefit-sharing provisions (Article 15) did not generate meaningful flows to the Changpa herder communities whose Pashmina economy was most directly affected by the Shahtoosh trade's distortion of the luxury fiber market
πŸ›οΈ
Domestic Implementation (India, UK, US, others)
Where international obligations became enforceable offences
βœ“ Achieved
  • UK COTES prosecutions of named luxury retailers in the late 1990s demonstrated that enforcement of CITES obligations was possible and commercially consequential in consumer markets
  • US ESA/Lacey Act framework provided the legal basis for a parallel enforcement action in New York β€” the two-market action creating a reputational crisis for the trade that single-market enforcement could not have achieved
  • India's 2002 Wildlife (Protection) Act amendment closed the pre-existing stock loophole that had been exploited to maintain the trade's legal fiction in Indian domestic and export markets
βœ— Failed / Fell Short
  • A 20-year gap between CITES listing (1979) and effective domestic enforcement (late 1990s) in key consumer markets β€” during which the commercial trade operated openly in named retail locations
  • Enforcement actions targeting retailers rather than the supply chain's origin β€” Kashmir processors and Tibetan hunting operations faced less systematic enforcement than the London and New York boutiques at the consumer end
  • No systematic consumer liability framework β€” buyers of Shahtoosh faced no criminal exposure in most jurisdictions despite purchasing products explicitly covered by domestic wildlife trade law

The Shahtoosh Lesson for International Biodiversity Law

The Shahtoosh case is unusual in the international biodiversity law literature because it is a case where the legal framework ultimately worked β€” where a species under commercial hunting pressure recovered measurably after enforcement of existing legal obligations. Most international biodiversity law case studies document failure: species listed on CITES Appendix I or national protection schedules that continued to decline despite legal protection. The chiru, to the extent that its population has recovered from the mid-1990s nadir, represents the system functioning as designed β€” slowly, imperfectly, and with a twenty-year delay, but functioning.

The lesson of Shahtoosh for international biodiversity law is not that the architecture failed β€” it is that the architecture works when it is activated. The CITES listing was in place from 1979. The domestic legislation was available. The enforcement agencies existed. What was missing for two decades was the political will to use the instruments that were already available. The chiru's recovery began not when new law was created but when existing law was enforced.

The Kunming-Montreal framework's explicit attention to illegal wildlife trade β€” and its monitoring and accountability mechanisms β€” represents the international community's attempt to institutionalise the lesson of Shahtoosh and similar cases: that legal frameworks without enforcement mechanisms are aspirational documents rather than protective instruments, and that the gap between adoption and enforcement is where most species losses occur.

The law that protected the chiru was written in 1979.
The chiru's recovery began when that law was enforced β€” nearly twenty years later.

International biodiversity law can protect species. What it requires to do so is not more law β€” it is activation of the law that exists. The Shahtoosh case is proof that this is possible. It is also proof of the cost when it is not.


Frequently Asked Questions

The Paris Agreement (2015) addresses climate change through greenhouse gas emission reduction commitments and is a distinct instrument from the biodiversity frameworks discussed in this article. It is not directly related to Shahtoosh or chiru protection. However, climate change is increasingly recognised as a threat to high-altitude ecosystems like the Tibetan plateau where the chiru lives β€” changes in permafrost, vegetation patterns, and precipitation regimes on the Chang Tang plateau have the potential to affect chiru habitat quality and carrying capacity in ways that the international biodiversity framework will need to address. The interaction between climate policy (Paris Agreement) and biodiversity policy (CBD/GBF) is an active area of international environmental law, and the chiru's high-altitude habitat makes it relevant to discussions of climate-biodiversity nexus governance. The article's title reflects a common search query that conflates the Paris Agreement with international biodiversity law more broadly β€” the legal context for Shahtoosh is the biodiversity architecture described here, not the Paris Agreement specifically.

As of the most recent publicly documented CITES COP proceedings, no proposal to downlist the chiru from Appendix I to Appendix II has been tabled. The IUCN's 2016 reclassification from Endangered to Near Threatened reflects improved population status but not a status that would support commercial trade β€” the chiru remains at approximately 10% of its historical baseline population, and the commercial hunting pressure that drove its decline has been suppressed rather than structurally eliminated. A downlisting from Appendix I would effectively re-open the commercial Shahtoosh trade, which remains biologically impossible to conduct sustainably because the fiber cannot be collected from living animals. Appendix I status for the chiru is expected to remain in place for the foreseeable future. The IUCN status improvement is a conservation success story within the existing protection framework, not an argument for reducing that protection.

The 30Γ—30 target commits GBF parties to protect at least 30% of the world's land area by 2030. China β€” which holds the largest portion of the chiru's Tibetan plateau habitat β€” has committed to the 30Γ—30 target and has designated the Chang Tang National Nature Reserve (approximately 334,000 kmΒ²) as the primary protected area for the chiru's core range. This reserve already covers a substantial portion of the chiru's primary habitat. China's 30Γ—30 commitments include expanding the overall protected area network, which would increase the formal protection coverage of the chiru's range. The practical conservation value of the 30Γ—30 commitment depends on effective management and enforcement within designated protected areas β€” which for the chiru means continued anti-poaching patrols, habitat monitoring, and enforcement against the residual illegal hunting that persists at reduced scale.

The 20-year enforcement gap reflects several converging factors. First, CITES has no direct enforcement mechanism β€” it creates obligations on states but relies on domestic legislation and enforcement action to give those obligations teeth. In the UK and US, the relevant domestic implementing legislation was either not yet enacted (UK COTES was adopted in 1994/1997, fifteen years after the CITES listing) or not actively applied to the luxury textile trade specifically. Second, the Shahtoosh trade operated within a high-status social environment β€” luxury boutiques in Mayfair and Fifth Avenue β€” that enforcement agencies were not typically monitoring for wildlife crime. Third, the "naturally shed" myth provided a plausible ethical cover story that was not questioned by the fashion press and therefore not visible to buyers or enforcement agencies as a false claim requiring investigation. Fourth, there was no organised coalition demanding enforcement until TRAFFIC's documentation work and the conservation community's engagement with fashion industry stakeholders created the political visibility that preceded the enforcement actions. The combination of absent domestic law, absent market scrutiny, active misinformation, and absent enforcement coalition kept the trade operational for two decades after the legal prohibition was in place.

On the right side of every framework described in this article

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GI-certified Kashmiri Pashmina is the product that CITES, the CBD, and the Kunming-Montreal framework were all designed to support β€” a sustainable use of a domesticated animal's natural fiber yield, in a traditional craft economy, with full supply chain documentation. The alternative β€” Shahtoosh β€” is what every one of those frameworks was designed to prevent.

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